Training Tips Archives • Page 6 of 7 • Three Dogs Training

Bad Xylitol, Bad…

Did I mention Xylitol is bad???

It can be in candy, gum (a lot of gum), chewable vitamins, supplements, peanut butter, substitutes for sugar, and even sold in a container that looks like honey as a honey substitute.

So many products like this one below have xylitol listed only in the fine print.

In this label, xylitol is very high on the list…

Read every one of the ingredients in the products you have around the house AND especially items you will be giving you dog.

Remember ingredients are listed in descending order by weight. In other words – biggest first. Xylitol is very high on the list for this product.

Others have done a great job of outlining the toxicity of xylitol in dogs. Here are some excepts from the veterinarian professionals:

Preventive Vet’s article “My Dog Ate Xylitol,” includes some of these warnings:

Dogs rapidly and almost completely absorb xylitol.

Ingestion of greater than 0.1g/kg can result in hypoglycemia (low blood sugar)…greater than 0.5 g/kg may result in acute liver failure.

Xylitol can cause low blood sugar within thirty minutes after ingestion… but may not show initial symptoms for twelve hours…
Preventive Vet, Dr. Beth Turner

Twelve hours is a long time to wait for symptoms to appear for a poison that acts this quickly.

So, if you think your dog has ingested xylitol – call the vet or poison control hotline immediately. A lot of irreversible damage can occur quickly.

VCA Animal Hospitals article “Xylitol Poisoning in Dogs,” includes some of these warnings:

The most common source of xylitol poisoning that Pet Poison Helpline gets calls about comes from sugar-free gum, although cases of xylitol poisoning from other sources such as supplements and baked goods are on the rise. In 2020, Pet Poison Helpline had 5,846 calls involving dogs ingesting xylitol!
VCA Animal Hospitals, Dr,’s Renee Schmid and Ahna Brutlag

Xylitol is too dangerous, too quickly toxic, and too easy to miss.

Reading the label of everything that comes into your house can help you avert tragedy.

Then… research online ahead of time so you know who to call if you suspect your dog has ingested xylitol. Don’t wait until time is running out.

Here is the website and phone number (888) 426-4435) for the ASPCA Poison Control. There may be a charge.

WAIT vs STAY

The difference between Wait and Stay can mean the difference between successful management vs everyone running down the street chasing the fluffy lighten-bolt that is their dog.

Dog training commands should be simple, but can often become complicated and confusing for the dog (and human too).

For example, if one handler uses command “X” to mean one action for their dog, and then another person uses command “Y” for the same action, our dogs are left having to remember which word which person uses for which command. And, handlers are left wondering why their dog isn’t understanding and preforming simple commands.

The dog’s internal response is probably the dog version of, “Honestly, I’m not sure what either of you mean.”

To make life easier for everyone, dog, handlers, parents, kids, dog-sitters, trainers, etc., it is imperative that everyone in the house use the same command for the same behavior.

The Wait and the Stay commands are often used interchangeably.

In a home with low distractions, one dog, and no kids, this is probably not a huge problem. However, when we start layering the distractions like kids, other dogs, many visitors, etc., the difference between Wait and Stay can mean the difference between successful management vs everyone running down the street chasing the fluffy lighten bolt that is their dog.

The definitions of Wait and Stay in standard dog training are…

Wait – Hang on a second or two, (a short duration) then receive a follow-up command or release word.

Stay – Hold position, freeze in place for an undetermined length of time (could be awhile).

The difference is often hard to see at first, but in the dog’s head it is a major difference in difficulty.

Wait is something a dog can usually achieve even when they are cranked up by exciting visitors, or stressful situations.

However, the Stay is harder to hold depending on how stressed or excited a dog might be.

To understand this in terms we humans experience, we need only look to air travel. We experience differences in difficultly between a short fifteen minute wait to board our airplane, verses the delayed flight that could be hours. One is much harder than the other for different reasons for different people, but in the end, the two different lengths of delay are very different demands on us.

Here are some sample situations where I would use the Wait and Stay commands differently:

Wait

Dog wants to go outside
- Ask for wait before opening the door.
- Door is opened only if dog holds position for a few seconds
Aunt Millie is knocking on the door
- Ask for a wait
- Door opens if the dog is holding position
- Once Aunt Millie is in, the dog gets the go say hello command.
Baby drops toy
- Ask dog for a wait
- Pick up toy before dog gets there, or redirect the dog with a touch command.

Stay

In an elevator
- Ask for a stay
  - Dog freezes in place for the duration of the ride regardless of the number of people getting in and out
- At the veterinarian
  - Ask for a stay for the examination, shots, blood draws
    - Your veterinarian will thank you
- At a traffic light
  - Ask for a stay
    - Dog freezes in place for the duration of the light regardless of the distractions that go by, like bicycles, skateboard, other dogs, etc…

Your dog will learn the difference between these two commands because once you have an understanding of what the commands are, you will mark and reward the appropriate behaviors.

You give your dog the WAIT command and he holds a position for a short duration – Praise and Reward.

You give your dog the STAY command and she freezes in place for an interval between one and three minutes – Praise and Reward.

Wait and Stay are two of the basic, essential commands I outline in Please Don’t Bite the Baby, and Please Don’t Chase the Dogs. And they are initially covered in the Basic classes I teach, then expanded on in the Intermediate classes.

If your dog doesn’t have a good wait and a solid stay, it is time to do some homework.

Excerpts from Please Don’t Bite the Baby

Excerpts from “Please Don’t Bite the Baby, and Please Don’t Chase the Dogs,” by Lisa J Edwards on how to keep kids and dogs safe and together.

For excerpts from Please Don’t Bite the Baby, click here.

Lisa is available for dog/baby/kid consultations remotely or in-person. Click here to contact her.

Or email lisa@threedogstraining.com

dog and baby safe together — Calm dog, happy baby.

To buy Please Don’t Bite the Baby and Please Don’t Chase the Dogs, click here

Dog Training Supply List

This dog training supply list includes your dog’s wearable equipment.

Many dog training tools are specific to training class but most of them will be useful in classes, at home, on walks, and more.

TP is not a dog training supply — Your dog may disagree about what is and is not a training tool. But you will hold firm on no TP.

Collars, harnesses, and leashes.

For most of our dogs, it is good to use the same equipment for walks, hikes, or classes. Occasionally we will use a longer or shorter leash for different activities.

Collars

Flat collar – these are the basic collar everyone thinks of when they think of a collar.
Martingale collar – this collar allows the collar to close just enough to prevent the dog from squiggling out. This is my preferred collar.
I happen to be a fan of the Lupine collars linked above. They are well made (US), guaranteed (even if chewed), and they have loads of nice patterns 😊

Harnesses

Understanding the difference between a back-clip harness and a front-clip harness is critical.

If your dog’s harness has the leash clipping to a d-ring on the dog’s back, this is a back-clip harness. In most cases, this will increase pulling as it engages your dog’s oppositional reflex and they will push their chest against the front of the harness reflexively (they just can’t help it).

A Front-clip harness will have a d-ring on the dog’s chest where the leash will attach.

Front clip harness is a dog training supply

This is a front-clip harness. Notice the leash is attached to the harness on the front of the dog’s chest.

This will reduce the pressure against the dog’s chest and decrease or eliminate the oppositional reflex. This will stop or reduce greatly the pulling battle that often goes on during dog walks.

Here are three well made and reasonably priced front clip harnesses.

Freedom No-pull harness. This fits the best and has a secondary back clip if you want to switch between back and front clipping.
The Easy Walk Harness. This can take some tinkering to get it to fit right. But if it fits your dog, it is a good front-clip harness.
The Sensation harness. This was the first of its kind and still well made and secure.

There are many other front-clip harnesses. I find the ones that have what looks like a breast-plate in the front move side-to-side too much to be effective. The Whole Dog Journal has a nice article outlining many different front-clip harnesses.

Leashes…

There are far too many types, styles, textures, and lengths of dog leashes to list them in this training supply list.

I prefer leather or biothane leases for my own dogs. These materials sit more comfortably in my hand than cotton or nylon. For either, I like three-quarters or five-eights width. For most women, an inch width will not allow the hand to fully close around it. So, the three-quarters or half inch will allow for a more secure hold.

The length of leash will vary. For an average walk in the park, four or six feet is fine. Six will allow you the most flexibility to allow your dog to move away to eliminate. But four is easiest if your dog is playing with other dogs on leash. For hiking or playing in an unfenced area, a longer ten to twenty foot leash will allow for maximum flexibility.

Leather is the softest and sturdiest leash I have found. But it is not waterproof.
Biothane leashes are waterproof and as easy on your hands as leather (they don’t slip or burn). They come in a variety of colors, lengths, and widths.
A subset of these is the multi-leash. This is a leash that has multiple connection points to allow it to transform from a six-foot leash, to a three-foot leash, to a wrap-leash, or even a tie-out.

General Dog Training supply product page

Want the best dog training class instructor?

The best dog training class instructor will teach humans and dogs alike using science based, force-free, fear-free training.

I have been offering fun and rewarding training classes in the northern Westchester, Putnam, and western Connecticut area for almost twenty-five years.

“Evidence supports the use of reward-based methods for all canine training. AVSAB promotes interactions with animals based on compassion, respect, and scientific evidence. Based on these factors, reward-based learning offers the most advantages and least harm to the learner’s welfare.”
AVSAB Position Statement on
Humane Dog Training

The best dog training class instructor will teach you and your dog to do more than sit, down, stay, wait and the basic commands.

I teach handlers how to communicate with their dogs to help their dogs do the right thing and be the best, happiest dog they can be.

The best dog training sit — Fun and rewards allowed this team to build a perfect and happy focus!

Teaching handlers how to read their dog teaches them how to understand and communicate with their dog.

To help you learn how to communicate with your dog, I will teach you how to read your dog’s body language. Knowing what your dog is signaling will help you teach them and keep them happy and calm. This book by Turid Ruggas is the primer on your dog’s body language, “On Talking Terms with Dogs, Calming Signals.“

We all learn better when we are having fun! Dog training classes should be fun and make everyone happy. There should never be force or fear used to teach.

Dog playing dots and gizmos one of the best training game — Sit/Stay with dots and toys.

The best dog training class instructor will understand that it is so much more fun to proof sit/stay when playing the dots-and-gizmos game.

Evidence shows us, “Why You Need to Reward Your Dog,” by Zazie Todd, PhD.

I want to help my students (humans and dogs) have joy in their training time together.

The best group stay — More dots, more stays, more fun!

For more information on Three Dogs Training’s classes, click the links below.

Two dogs settling after doing their best in class. — A trained dog is a happy dog – and probably a little tired, too 😊

Class location